2010 February | Stronger Cyclist

Hill Repeats

posted on February 24th, 2010 in Cycling, Cycling Tips, Ride Reports, Strength Training by Stephen

Hill repeats, how we love to loathe them. If you are lucky, you start off at a steady pace and the Mountain teases you into thinking it is going to be a good day….. then as your heart rate begins to catch up to the effort your putting out, the Mt. truly let’s you know what kind of day it is going to be – on the Mt’s terms, not yours. Sometimes the mountain allows you to climb with less effort than previous, but this time of year, the mountain has it’s advantage and may take this opportunity to show it’s authority as Mother Nature and her companion, mean ole Mr. Gravity.

Yet, you must pedal onward, knowing that the steepness of the Mt that you climb is not just taking you to the top, but is taking you to a stronger point in your fitness. Your legs feel the next upward pitch that causes you to grind away on the crank arms ever so slowly. This is the pain that the mountain inflicts in the normal cyclist that wish to over come the grade and bask in the view from the pinnacle.

Good day or bad day, the fact that you are on the Mountain battling and so many others are not can confirm your commitment. If you start off to hard racing to get to the top, then sometimes the Mountain can really take the wind out of your sails. Caution can be the better part of valor as you climb up the first 1000 meters. The mountain will cause you to settle into a more humbling pace if you miss-judge or underestimate her. The cyclists on the descent smile and nod at those still battling the upward slope, for they know, not only the anguish the mountain is putting on your body, but that once down to the bottom, they themselves will turn around and battle against their own machines to take them to the top.

Your legs scream from the lactic acid being built up from each pedal stroke, which is not spin, but a MASH. Seated climbing is usually the par, until the grade rises at such an angle that the mind convinces you that maybe standing will be easier…. but only briefly, then HR stands with the body, and you flop back down giving the legs what seems like only a brief moment of relief. The mountain can be deceiving, for some stretches you can feel a brief relief, then you turn the bend, and the suffering is there again. The body screams to stop, but the mind must overcome! You must continue and remember that your goal is not at the top, but in the grind of the uphill battle against gravity.

Upward you ascend, slowly, but steadily, knowing that in the end, the mountain will win again, but you will come away a stronger person both in cycling and in mental fortitude for being there this day!

Climbing hills and mountains develops sport specific leg strength to cycling, which if a base fitness aerobic level has been developed and the workouts at a gym have been followed, the body will respond with greater performance and wattage output. As this strength is developed it will allow the rider to be able to ride along with other riders at the same weight/speed, requiring a lower effort so therefore a lower heart rate.

Hill Repeats:
To do these efforts, I try to use a steady climb of about a mile in length. Keep a cadence of around 65-70, and keeping as much pressure on the legs as possible for the whole climb. Speed is not what you should use to gauge your fitness on this effort, use the gearing that you are able to climb the Mt in. By keeping a lower cadence you are using more muscle to climb than Heart Rate. The adaption period is 6-8 weeks of consistent work on the hills.

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Could you bike commute?

posted on February 22nd, 2010 in Cycling by Stephen

Freedom from the grind: Become a bike commuter

Since you’re reading this, you have a bike. Are you commuting on it? Get away from the dangerous assumption that commuting by car is the way things ought to be. It isn’t.

Many of us first tasted freedom riding to and from grade school. We dropped bikes when we started to preen in junior high, and gave up for good when we were given the option of moving a few tons of metal between home and high school. Burning fossil fuel to move 6,000 pounds, one person and a small bag a short distance just doesn’t make sense.

If you take the energy stored in a gallon of gas and convert it to food calories, many cyclists could get over 900 miles to the gallon. What does your car get? The cost of operating a bike is pegged at three cents per mile, while driving a car solo costs 70 cents per mile.

There are other benefits, too. Riding means you don’t have to commit the absurd act of driving to a gym to work out. Transit doubles as exercise, a twofer that saves time and improves health. Commuting means you’re in control; no more sitting in bumper-to-bumper traffic. You can also eat more and enjoy it. Gobble that leftover donut down; consider it re-fueling after the morning ride.

Parking options improve, too. Bicycles almost always get the rock-star spot while the poor chumps in cars circle for several minutes looking for parking — another environmental disaster and huge waste of time.

In today’s fast-paced world, time is valuable. Luckily, for most short trips — whether to the market, quick errands or work — riding can be comparable to driving. If you can manage 15mph, five miles can be completed in 20 minutes — with almost no time spent stuck in traffic. Between walking to the car, traffic lights, finding parking and walking to the destination, that five-mile trip in a car can easily run beyond 25 minutes.

Leave the rush hour traffic behind

Anyone with a bicycle can be a commuter. If you have only one bike, then you’ve got your commuter ride right there. Converting an old bike is becoming popular, and there are a number of ways to improve your ride for the task. As in racing, lighter is better — but not at the cost of reduced durability or the potential for extra maintenance.

If there’s one essential for commuter bikes, it’s bulletproof tires. Tires that have Kevlar or some other impenetrable layer reduce the likelihood of flats. While carrying a pump, extra tube and tools is always a good thing, flatting when late to work sucks. The right belted tires may mean the only flats you get result from riding the tires under-inflated. Many of these tires have thick treads, so they can last a year or two depending on how far and how often you commute.

The best commuter bikes are simplified, with the gearing appropriate for the ride. If it’s a hilly route, make sure you have extra-low gears so you don’t have to huff and puff to get where you’re going. With a flat ride, consider using internal gearing, a single speed or a fixed-gear in a ratio that is easy to pedal.

The fix is in

Fixed-gear bikes are becoming pretty hip these days, offering certain advantages when the conditions are right. They’re light because the chain is short and there’s only a single cog and chainring. You can also get away with just one brake in the front. The rear wheel is generally bolted on — making it harder to steal — and the same can be done to the front wheel. And you’ll never space out on the morning ride because the direct drive attached to the pedals means that when the wheels are rolling, the pedals are turning.

If you’re a newbie and you’re lusting after a new fixed gear, get one with a flip-flop hub and two handbrakes. A flip-flop hub allows you to switch from a fixed cog on one side to a freewheel cog on the other. Schwinn re-released their popular Madison model, and Swobo also has a stylin’ fix called the Sanchez.

Older bikes can be converted to fixed gears or single-speeds, whether they’re designed for road riding or mountain biking. The rear dropouts (where the back wheel connects to the frame) determines whether it will be an easy job or one requiring a savvy mechanic. Devices such as the Surly Singleator are available if you want to turn your freewheel into a single-speed.

Extra accessories for commuters

What lock you need depends on where you are and how long you’re staying. Sometimes, a cable is all you need for a deterrent; other times, a U-lock is needed for its security. Ideally, get something light enough to carry and always lock your bike when leaving it alone — even for a minute. Many companies are happy to accommodate bikes, providing bike lockers or secure storage areas.

Fenders keep clothes clean and dry on damp rides and can be a welcome accessory for commuters. They don’t have to be heavy and made of aluminum. Many are made of plastic and designed to be attached and detached quickly.

Every commuter should have at least one blinking light. Most are designed to clip onto clothes, or come with quick-release brackets that make taking them on and off bikes a breeze. A red blinking light for the back is essential. A white blinking light for the front is useful for alerting oncoming traffic.

Most commuters will find a bag or rack is a good investment. Using a small bag forces you to be efficient and take only the minimum, but not everyone has that option. While some believe messenger bags are the way to go because bike messengers carry all sorts of stuff, what they don’t realize is that messenger bags are designed for carrying large, oddly-shaped objects short distances. They’re not always comfortable when fully loaded over longer rides. Backpacks designed for bike commuting usually are long and narrow so the bag doesn’t easily shift when riding. They often have a back padding system to minimize sweat, multiple compartments and optional hydration bladders.

The big question

Is it best to ride in normal clothes or riding clothes? Most commuters base their decision on the distance covered. The big break seems to be at five miles. Less than five, many opt for street clothes — use some kind of band to keep pant legs from getting greasy or caught on the chain. More than five miles and it’s time to get changed.

And thus do clothes beget the sweat discussion. A shower at the destination, especially if it’s work, makes things easy. But there’s always dressing in layers, riding easy, and doing a quick manual spritz in a sink.

The hardest thing about forsaking your car for a bike is the first ride. It won’t feel right. But the more you commute, the easier it gets. Before you know it, you’ll be contemplating riding to work in the cold, the rain, the snow — anything to stay away from driving. It’s addictive. Luckily, it’s the good kind of addictive.

By J.P. Partland
For Active.com
May 03, 2007

How to prevent cold toes while cycling

posted on February 13th, 2010 in Cycling, Cycling Tips by Stephen

It’s that time of year when cyclists are starting to get anxious to be riding outside.
Pro racing has already started in Qatar, and next with Oman. Even though all 49 states have snow this past weekend, you can bet that spring is just around the corner. Hopefully you have been at least putting in some gym time and riding the trainer. But are you about to go insane from being inside on your bike?
Ready to do some of your intervals outside. This will help you keep those toes warm on these chilly days!

Firstly, here is a post that I wrote about starting off warm before getting on the bike. At the WBL this winter, I even went into to Sunshine Bike shop and took off extra layers to warm-up. Then as everyone was about to start, I put the layers back on & started the ride.

To make sure I can feel my toes for a cold ride I start off with a pair of heavy wool socks. There are several brands that make wool socks and the difference b/w wearing wool versus a regular cycling sock is huge! Defeet probably make my favorite wool sock, although I have gotten a nice pair from a outdoor store also.

Next, I will put on toe covers on my cycling shoes. The reason that I add the toe covers is that it is usually the toes that actually get cold, so an extra layer over them is usually quite welcome! This layer is a good buffer, but not really enough for a below 40 degree day.

shoe covers

And lastly I will put the neoprene covers over the toe covers and shoes. This creates a 3 layer barrier from the cold. With 3 different layers it is easier for you to make any adjustments to changes in temperature, however, I have found that if it is cold enough for all 3 layers, I usually don’t need to adjust anything.

Now get out there and ride!